10 Easy Steps to Build an Outdoor Kitchen

HOW TO BUILD AN

OUTDOOR KITCHEN:

STEP BY STEP

by the ATBBQ.com Outdoor Kitchen Team

|10 Easy to Follow Steps

At All Things Barbecue, we design and build custom galvanized steel frames for your outdoor kitchen. Prior to welding the frames are assembled in a fixture, this assures square and plumb surfaces. The welded construction produces a strong frame and precise door and cabinet openings that make installation a breeze.

This precision speeds up installation and produces an unequalled finished product, and the frames can be shipped directly to your doorstep.

With an ATBBQ Frame System you will have your will have your Outdoor Kitchen set and ready for stone/brick and countertop in just a few hours. Our precision frame systems will simplify even the most complex projects.

Here are the step-by-step instructions from unpacking the frame to installing the appliances.

1: Gather tools

| TOOLS

Pencil
Tape measure
2’ level for setting the undercounter components
6’ level for leveling the frame(s)
Wrenches (3/4”, 9/16”, and 1/2”)
Box knife. Impact Driver
Angle grinder with 4” diamond blade (for cutting cement board)

| MATERIALS NEEDED

½” Cement board (Durock or Permabase)
1” self-drilling lath screws
composite shims

2: Framing

| ATTACH THE FRAMES

Move the frames into position, the kitchen can consist of a single or multiple frames, depending on the size and shape of the kitchen.

If more than one frame, insert the provided clip nuts to the frame brackets and loosely connect with the washers and bolts.

| ADJUST THE LEVELING FEET

Assess the grade of the jobsite and begin the leveling process at the highest point of grade. Start with the frame ½” off the ground and begin leveling the frame with a 6 ft. level.

This minimum height creates enough clearance under the doors and drawers to allow room for finish materials. This also creates space for drainage paths when necessary.

Once the frame is level, fully tighten the backup nuts on the leveling feet and the bolts at the connecting points.

3. Plumbing & Electrical

| ROUGH IN ELECTRICAL AND PLUMBING

Rough-in and complete the electrical, gas, and integrated lighting as needed for your project.

THINGS TO CONSIDER

Times the kitchen will be used most often
Being able to cook in the off season
Lighting around the outdoor kitchen area
Placement of outdoor furniture

4: CONCRETE & BACKER BOARD

| APPLY CONCRETE & BACKER BOARD

You will skin the sides of the frame that finish materials will be applied to with 1/2” Durock or Permabase. Hold the cement board against the frame and trace the openings for the components, such as doors, drawers, and appliances.

Cut out the openings using an angle grinder with a 4” diamond blade. Attach the cement board to the frame using an impact driver and 1” self-drilling lath screws. Space screws roughly 10” apart.

If you are raising the structure for drainage, be sure to raise the cement board approximately 1/4”-1/2” off the ground.

5: DOORS AND DRAWERS

| INSTALL THE UNDERCOUNTER DOORS & DRAWERS

Start by removing the laser film at the edges of the components where the finish materials will meet the component frames. This will make the film easier to remove after the finish material is applied.

Leave the rest of the laser film in place for protection during the construction process. Use 2’ level to confirm plumb and level, adding composite shims as required to square the door in the opening.

Secure the door on all four sides using 1” self-drilling screws.

6: UNDERCOUNTER COMPONENTS

| DETAIL FOR SETTING UNDERCOUNTER COMPONENTS

ADDITIONAL INSTALLATION DETAIL FOR SETTING UNDERCOUNTER COMPONENTS THAT HAVE A FULL OR PARTIAL ENCLOSURE, SUCH AS A PANTRY OR TRASH ROLLOUT:

In openings that will house a component with an enclosure, you will notice a 1 ¼” horizontal member toward the rear of the enclosure. Use a 2’ level and composite shims to complete the leveling of the component. This will distribute the weight of the enclosure and provide smooth operation.

At this time we also recommend checking your appliance manuals to determine cabinet venting recommendations from the manufacturer.

7: CORBELS

| IF YOU HAVE CORBELS TO SUPPORT A BAR TOP

Your corbels will be factory installed to your frame before it ships.

When installing your cement board you will cut it around the corbels and then run your final finish over or up to the corbels, depending on the material being used.

8: COUNTERTOPS

| TEMPLATE & INSTALL THE COUNTERTOP

Your granite company will template and install the countertop. They’ll measure the unit, taking into consideration any overhang, and make cutouts for cookers, power burners, sinks and other features according to appliance manual specifications.

9. APPLIANCES

| INSTALL THE APPLIANCES

This may seem a little counterintuitive, however, by installing the appliances before setting the finish material (stone, brick, tile or other) you know exactly where to stop the finish material around the appliances.

This allows you to set the finish material up to the bottom of the granite (countertop material) without having big gaps to caulk between the counter and the granite. Granite does not sit perfectly flat, so it's common to get up to 1/2" gap between the granite and the stone or other finish material.

This is even more helpful when your design has changes in counter heights to accommodate ceramic grills and Power Burners that are set below 36" and when dealing with a 42" bar height. This approach lets the stone mason or tile setter plan and execute the installation with increased accuracy. In the end, we have found that this results in the best finished product.